All I want for Christmas

is a nice tin of tuna

My inbox is full of gift guides. I understand, it’s almost Christmas. And it’s my choice. These gift guides come from newsletters I’ve subscribed to. They are curated lists from newsletters I’ve curated - so chances are, I want most things on every list. But at the same time, I’m struggling with all the stuff in my house. You already know about the simmering hot spot on my kitchen counter. I haven’t even mentioned cardboard boxes in the basement filled with donations, or the books, socks or sticks of Old Spice deodorant I slot between the rungs of the stairs daily, hoping that someone, anyone, will pick up and take away what is theirs. We don’t need more stuff.

But I do want connection, I think we all do. Food, as always, is the answer. So I’m thinking about small gifts of food this year, something you can hold in your hand and share with someone special. Imagine a little tin of star anise with their black shiny seeds cradled in a wooden star. A sweet licorice treasure, ready to scent your kitchen the way they scent mine. I would pack the stars with a recipe for a rich wintery flavour bomb - spiced lentil and tomato soup (recipe to come in the new year!). 

Or how about a container of dried Chinese plums? I found them at the Chinese grocery store on Quinpool road, past the teas and frozen dumplings and bags of dried beans. When back in the car I peeled back the metal seal, like a new container of tennis balls. Inside were tiny little dried plums coated in sugar. I first tasted a dried plums (the un-sugared variety) at the Taiwanese tea ceremony¹ I attended last spring. At the end of the tasting, when my palate was fully quenched, our host served a small plate of these little delights. They were shrivelled like a raisin; a homely offering, but their flavour was bold - tart, salty and sweet with a satisfying chewiness. They’re a perfect gift for someone like my sister, who recently gave up candy because she would eat a bag of wine gums in one sitting, every time she curled up on the sofa. These plums are the original gummy candy, the best substitution.

I’m also thinking about Griottines, the little French morello cherries that are harvested, pitted, soaked in Kirsch, then packed in syrup in lovely glass jars. Jill Barber introduced them to me when I interviewed her last spring for The Food Podcast.² It was toward the end of our conversation when I asked Jill about her love of cocktails. Jill savours small moments of beauty. Jill loves cocktails. I wanted guidance on both of those things. She told me to invest in these premium cherries or any other equally fabulous brand, spoon two or three cherries into a glass, add a little bit of the liqueur from the jar, a little bit of bourbon, and ice. That, she said, is her simple, winter cocktail, one that you don’t even have to mix. And if cocktails aren’t your thing, imagine these cherries spooned over ice cream, or better yet, floating on a fluffy pavlova?

And last but not least, how about a beautiful tin of tuna? I never thought I’d say that, but here we are. I still have a few tins stashed away from my trip to Portugal in the fall. You can’t walk through the rolling, tiled streets of Lisbon without hitting a tinned fish shop. Here I am with my friend Katie one evening, overwhelmed, trying to choose. And here I am, in heaven, sampling a little of everything - tinned Octopus, tinned sardines and tinned tuna, all decanted and served in beautiful ways at Sol e Pesca, a tiny restaurant on a pink street in Lisbon.

You don’t have to travel to Lisbon to find a nice tin (can or jar) of tuna³. Look for tuna packed in olive oil; if it’s packed in water, drain it well and serve it with a swirl of olive oil (and why not add chopped olives and a touch of lemon?). Illustrated packaging is usually what lures me. Just look at Minerva, the goddess of excellence, wisdom, the arts and poetry, blessing this tin of tuna with a branch of chilies. Doesn’t she make a lovely gift? 

I will toss this tuna with pasta, chopped parsley, thinly sliced preserved lemon, capers and parmesan cheese. Maybe you’ll do the same, or turn your tinned tuna into a salad Niçoise like Karen Pinchin⁴ might do?

Now look at that. I’ve written a gift guide.⁵

1. More on the tea ceremony over at The Food Podcast, Season 3, Episode 6: Listen to the Tea

2. Season 3, Episode 7: Homemaking with Jill Barber

3. Luke’s on Agricola has a particularly nice selection right now.

4. Season 4, Episode 2: Finding Yourself in the Story

5. One more thing… my friend has just opened the most magical online food shop called flavourfull. It’s perfect if you’re looking for special things like peanut and cherry butter, pistachio dukka or chestnut flour. Yes I’ve just listed what’s in my cart ;) I’ll be making gnocchi with that chestnut flour this winter… stay tuned.